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Yep, I've got a set of the original runs done by Vic Ireland waiting to be installed when I swap in my CC'd PF. I wouldn't mind getting my hands on the CPR topper plastics tho. (hint hint if anyone doesn't want theirs) D

Ok, don't think you're doing it correctly. You got the part about the connector side right as long as your DMM lead is making contact with the pin in the housing at all times. You then take your other DMM lead and touch it to the leg of each switch with the same colour wire (in this case the...

Ahh, but it's not odd. All System3 games share all strobe lines between the lamp AND switch matrix. So every switch matrix row is tied to the exact same strobe line as the lamp matrix row. This is why troubleshooting lamp and switch matrix issues on these games is a royal pain in the ass...

Bally / WMS would never have moved to this whole pro/prem/LE model of business. They were always the top of the food chain when it came to pinball, and they marketed themselves as such. You buy BLY/WMS, you knew you were getting the best of the best. That's my take on it. :) D

LOL. :FP:

Wow, good deal if you ask me. Wasn't someone here just asking about this game? Good luck with the sale, shouldn't last long. D

Agreed. I think the comments that surrounded this issue was the fact the people organizing this originally reached out to collectors and were asking them to do this for nothing. D

Yeah, there was no way they'd do something like this pro-bono regardless of the return. The cost to pull this off logistically would be $$. D

Ok, so you want to check the wire from A3J3 pin 10 and make sure you have continuity from the connector through ALL of the switches. The wire colour code is 411 which is a white wire with a yellow and 2 brown stripes. Use your DMM in continuity test and ring out from the a3J3 connector pin 10...

Actually, before we get you digging into PCB's and whatnot... Did you happen to look at the manual and figure out if all of the switches that go dead are on the same row of the matrix? Look into it and post back here. D

Thats just the diode board, it must go back to the mpu. I'd be looking at the mpu board for sure.

Not bad @ 54 pins on the top floor. LOL D

Yep, which is exactly why I feel the price point with the clear dome and the white plastic bracket + decal was more than fair. Hell, the domes are selling for $80 these days, and the bracket is $20 on their own! Pretty decent if you ask me. D

After many many many years of people working on this (and me personally supplying an original NOS decal to Darin Jacobs) the guys over at Twisted Pins have finally managed to pull this off. For the first time ever, an original style reproduction of the foil topper on Wh20 is now available...

The second link you posted is none other than our own "REVOLUTION" member's artistic creativity. Maybe shoot him a message and see if he'd be interested in offering his service? D

Heh, when I read your post about reseating the connector and everything working the first thing that crossed my mind was that won't solve the issue for long... I am going to say you've either got cold / broken solder joints on the switch matrix headers, or the header pins and connector pins are...

OMG I'm dying here.... LOL D

Congrats Rob, and whomever the new owner is. D

Good stuff, and this is just the beginning! Keeping these things running 100% is what I enjoy the most about the hobby. Enjoy... D

One of my favorite seminars at Expo 2010 was when a large group of the designers from WMS got together to talk about some of their favorite stories / memories and Granner's tales were by far the best of the lot. The story behind T2 and the swear ROM's and how the game almost never got released...