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Yeah, clean the opto's for sure, and instead of moving the PCB and making new holes just get a couple toothpics and wood glue and put them in the existing hole that is stripped out. 20 mins and she'll be as good as new. D

If you want to bench test it, you can use any decent power supply that kicks out 12-15VDC. I wouldn't recommend using your WPC as the source for testing tho, just in case. As for your issue, seems odd that after connecting the MPU it tanks the power supply. I will check my notes tonight when...

Along with the fact it's a container game, so expect lots of other unexpected surprises. (even if it's presented as 100% working) Always always always expect the worst case scenario with container games, period. That way you can never be disappointed. One should also be prepared to put a...

I'll see if I can dig it out, but I can't for the life of me remember where I tripped over it. I think I ordered the "kit" from Marco tho... Basically it changed the home position switches on the cannons from the blade style to the roller rocker style switches. I was right, I did order the...

It's funny, I've bought 3 pins from SK and all were super rare and in super condition. I was toying with buying about 12-14 more from there but the timing was just all wrong. D

Re: Gottlieb system 80B 5v power supply. You should test the LM338 with your DMM in diode setting to see if it's good. I would also suggest looking at the trim pot, as these have high failure rates as well. D

You know... having the schematics up on the big screen was fantastic. Made things easier to explain and have my side kick help with troubleshooting. D

Project is in a bit of a holding pattern. Some of the people involved (myself included) have to juggle other priorities, so the kits are taking a bit of a back seat these days. Sorry for the delay guys, but these will be put together eventually and we'll make sure everyone is updated. The kit...

All I can hear in my head is Jesse James saying "Pay up sucka". D

Today's installment is unfortunately going to be pretty much all text, because I haven't been taking any pics of this game. (I honestly never expected it to become part of this section if that is any indication) I have been working on this game on and off for a few months at a friends, and it's...

I thought BK was the priority?!?! (or is that just MY priority?) Also, did you manage to locate the part needed to fix Ted? D

No, PIC chips are pre-programmed by the OEM and are unable to be copied, hence my comment about the PCB being a paperweight if the PIC is bad. (I do not know if Stern has replacements available or not) D

Using your dmm in diode / beep setting. For 400x series diodes you should see .4 to .6 one way with a short beep and nothing the other. Transistors depends on the part... No this is not always the case, it depends on the circuit. Unfortunately no. I do not know of a way to test a pic. D

Glad you got the reset sorted. If the diodes and transistors are testing fine I wouldn't bother replacing them. My concern would be a failed PIC chip. If thats toast, I'm afraid the board is now a paperweight. D

Yup, you can swap both around just to test and verify the switch you're having an issue with is in fact the switch and not something else in the game that is causing the issue. D

Starburst places orders with PBR quite often, so you could always have them order it up and avoid the money order hassle. The one thing you will find is PBR will be the only source for the majority of parts for your game as they are the rights holder to all things GTB. What you could do to...

You could always use the round strap or any of the 3 ground pins on the J1 connector, and the j1 connector I'm talking about should be the large connector on the magnet PCB. I would also check the diodes on the magnet PCB to make sure none of them have gone open. D

If the blanking LED is going out the issue is coming from the MPU. With the game off remove and reseat the small ribbon cable between the MPU and driver. Then push on every single socketed IC on the MPU, as you may find one or two that are not totally seated in their sockets. Power up and see...

Sys3 used some funky switches so ringing that switch out between the two contacts might work when you close it, but it may not as it has some circuitry on the switch itself. They were a "smart switch" that apparently never required cleaning or adjusting, and if they were adjusted at any point...

Anything is possible but where you were feeding a sub I can't see it being the issue. Keep us posted.