Clear coating advice

[mwong168]

I believe Adriano used some clear laser or inkjet waterslide decals on Menace's Shadow playfield before re-clearing it. Not sure if this is the same or similar product but sure he can post up some pictures when he gets a chance.

http://www.decalpaper.com/product-p/l825c.htm

How was the mylar removal process? Did you use the freeze spray or hair drying method? Have fun removing the leftover glue residue? :twisted:

 

[flyer666]

I just clear coated my black hole, if you like you can stop and take a look and quiz me. It is very simple to do

We are having our kw pinball toury night if you want to join us


Just pm your phone number

Larry

 

[mwong168]

Well if you wanna know a tip on removing leftover mylar glue the safe and easier way you can try the flour and isopropyl alcohol method which worked great for me here:

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=177

 

[DRANO]

I believe Adriano used some clear laser or inkjet waterslide decals on Menace's Shadow playfield before re-clearing it. Not sure if this is the same or similar product but sure he can post up some pictures when he gets a chance.

http://www.decalpaper.com/product-p/l825c.htm

How was the mylar removal process? Did you use the freeze spray or hair drying method? Have fun removing the leftover glue residue? :twisted:

I'm pretty sure he was referring to the actual plastic inserts, not the decals.
In any case, decalpaper.com definitely makes the best product I've use so far.

As for making your own inserts (should you break one) I think you'd better start looking for a donor playfield. If the insert is no longer manufactured or stocked, it's possible the molds are lost or broken and there is little value in creating new tooling unless someone like CPR takes up the torch of making a run.

 

[JeffM]

I paint cars as one of my many jobs. Id be willing to help out with the clearcoating process as i have all the stupid expensive paint guns to do so. Im located in london tho.

 

[g-man]

There is really no good reason why you should be breaking any inserts, unless they already have structural weaknesses. If you get the insert hole nice and warm ( hairdryer or cautious heatgun ) and you use the perfect tool for tapping out the insert ( make one if you have to, such as a chevron shaped piece of wood ) and you are patient, then you should not be sacrificing any inserts. The only time I break an insert is when I get tired, impatient or both. :mrgreen:

 

[g-man]

Yes, the heat is to soften the glue and make removal easier.

Epoxy makes a good adhesive for inserts. It dries clear, fast and strong. Doesn't expand when drying. Any type of epoxy should be okay.

Yes, you'll want to sand your inserts to get them shiny and scratch-free agin. You might find you have to go even higher with the grits....1000 or even 2000.

 

[JeffM]

If you wetsand with like a 1500 or 2000 they will polish up really shiny. Little trick i use on car headlights too