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I'm going to approach this from the point of view of someone who has no machines (starting from scratch) because, what I would buy today with $10K is highly influenced by what I've already got. First of all, I'd spread it around and try to get some variety because it sucks playing the same type...

I recently sold mine, but I also had the pleasure of owning it for almost 8 years. It was a staple in the lineup and loved by pinheads and regular folk alike. Now, if you ask me today, I'd say put the money into 2-3 other games with some nice variety... but it's easy for me to say that since...

I wouldn't expect a huge drop in price for a 1 month old game. I'd be happy to save the tax in most cases. I think 'some' mods may add value, but not others. That's a personal thing. If someone put sliding playfield supports on a Stern pro instead of those dumb pegs, I'd be overjoyed. Same for...

Ahhh. I assumed you were referring to Drew's habit of losing interest in games after 24hrs

Pinball brokering! Damn, I should've thought of that? Guess I'm too honest for my own good :p

Man, my WH2O's stock must've risen recently ;)

That does look like fun! I can't say I've really played one. That Tag Team next to it looks super fun too ;)

Just reading back to the original question and how it relates to NIB. I think that question is just as confusing as with any other type of machine. I've only owned two NIB so far. A Tron and an XMLE. I think I paid almost $5K for the Tron and close to $8K for the Wolverine. Obviously the Tron...

Some people will even price a game based on the next machine they want to buy! "So, my game is worth XXX because the 'replacement value' on the game I want to buy is XXX." What's up with that? In any case, this hobby seems to be made up of a multitude of economic geniuses ;) I wouldn't even...

It's not supposed to be an easy shot. The clear ramp does cause less rattling around once the ball is in there, but it won't make the mouth/opening any easier to hit. Once you get used to the timing and how your particular flipper behaves, you should be able to make that shot maybe half of...

Thanks for posting the links! Some of the "horsey" ganes from Williams are quite collectible... Especially the woodrail ones with backbox animations. I've been looking for a NAGS but no luck here ;) As for the auction itself, I got a 1937 Bally Booster from one of these auctions a few years...

Monopoly.... It's a wonderful thing :(

I always remove the backbox bulbs from my 6803 games. It was a bad design and they create a really bad reflection that shows up a LOT on the playfield glass and makes a lot of these games almost unplayable. When I bought that machine I was just happy to see there was no bulb and left it alone ;)...

I was lucky enough to be at CES today and got to speak with Gary Stern for a bit and played Batman and Aerosmith. Even managed to GC the premium they had in display. I can't get into the details because I was just trying to keep up and follow along, but my initial thoughts were pretty...

Oh wow! I had no idea these were no longer available. I just take it for granted that, once something has been reproduced, there is a ton of stock... but I guess that isn't really the case.

If you're unwilling to buy a new set, there's a seller and well known Pinsider in Florida that's parting out a bunch of individual used HS plastics on eBay. I've dealt with him before and he's pretty reasonable. I'm sure he'd offer a package price on the ones you need. I didn't see slings, but...

Interesting. So, did you replace the board with a rottendog to deal with some of these issues... or did you buy the machine with the RD already installed and non-working GI? If you're the one that put in the board than I guess there's less chance of it being a board problem; not unheard of...

Almost all older ganes were routed at an arcade or other location at one point or another. It looks pretty decent from what I can see. I'm no expert on WWFRR so I may be missing some common wear points, but all I notice are the scoop holes. Check if Cliffys makes protectors for those. They...

Brown connector is not from age... It's from heat. GI connectors get burnt all the time because the game lighting is constantly on. Re-pin those connectors (and try to use the better trifurcon crimp pins and molex housings). Also, the header pins on the board should have their solder...

There was also a Chicago Coin steam shovel mechanical game there for $2200 on the weekend.