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How to Remove and Install Bally/Wiiliams Siderails

Discussion in 'Projects & Mods' started by mwong168, Nov 20, 2013.

  1. mwong168

    mwong168 Administrator
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    Adriano recently sent out bunch of parts from his games to get plated by Mike Chestnut. Turns out he gave him a Bally/Williams brass plated lockbar instead of a Stern. So before sending it back Adriano offered it to a bunch of my friends. My JM needed a better looking lockbar so I figure why not just take this brass one and upgrade all the trim on my TOTAN. Since Mike Chestnut was going to send up another Stern lockbar for Adriano's LOTR, I asked if he could see if a pair of brass side rails could be added to the package. I also lucked out as Adriano got a new set of legs plated for his IJ which already had pretty nice original brass legs which came with the game so I was all set!

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    Here is how my TOTAN looks since I got it last year in July. It use to belong to Menace (aka Doug) who brought it back to life a few years ago and cleaned it up real nice.

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    This game has a great story as Doug had the translite signed by JPOP and this was also brought back during the Chicago Expo trip where poolman got waived through at the border by the customs officer who was hauling a trailer full of pins! I'm sure the customs officer was wondering why there was such a loud cheer as poolman pulled away :twisted:

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    I have never removed side rails on a B/W game before and heard it can be a bitch to get off without ruining them. A fellow pinside user by the name of BLACK_ROSE offered this pro tip :eek:

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    I had everything but the torch and was told from Adriano it wasn't required!!!

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    I slid my TOTAN out so I had better access to the sides and did I mention how much I love these Marco EZ Glide leg levellers? They make sliding your games around so effortless! I removed the lockbar, playfield glass and backglass tub from the game.

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    This is optional but I removed the backbox hinges from the game to avoid it swinging and scratching the artwork. It is held on by two screws and nuts in the head and one big allen key bolt and screw.

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    Now aside from the double sided adhesive tape there is a screw and nut on one side of the rail and a nail on the other side. I used a layer of painters tape just below the rail to protect the cabinet artwork while I wedged the putty knife under the side rail and gently pushed up.

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    Again I initially used the rubber mallet to hammer the putty knife but found by just using my hand and some force it was pretty easy to break through the double sided tape. I worked my way slowly from one end of the rail to the other.

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    Once I finished this I had to use a small flat head screw driver to make a big enough gap for me to use this tool to pull the nail out.

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    The side rail came off the cab pretty clean with very little adhesive to clean up using Goo Gone and a rag.

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    I test fit the new side rail by aligning up the screw holes on both ends. Now with the new side rail in the proper place I remove the original painters tape used to protect the cabinet and applied a new piece half on the side rail and cabinet.

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    The reason I put a new piece of tape is to flip it down as shown below and apply a new piece of double sided tape. Afterwards all I have to do is flip the side rail back up for a perfect fit. Thanks for the tip Adriano!

    I applied pressure to make sure it sticks to the cab, put the screw and nail back on both ends and reinstalled the backbox hinge.

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    I was actually surprised how easy this was and the left side took me about 15 minutes to get off. I was expecting the nail to be a pain in the ass to remove and a lot of crappy adhesive to clean up off the cab. Fortunately most of the mess was on the old side rails which I was able to salvage and will clean up and keep as back up in case the rails on my existing or future games are damaged.

    I repeated the same procedure to remove and install the right side rail and now I was ready to do the easy parts which the lock bar and swapping to the new legs using my pinball lifter.

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    With the backglass tub removed and easy access to the boards I took this opportunity to update my game ROM from 1.3 -> 1.4. Thanks to Dave Astill who I met up last weekend at my work to exchange some parts. I set the date/time and put the rest of the game back together before I slid it back into my line up.

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    Here is what my TOTAN looks like now after its 1 hour make over :cool:

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    At some point down the road I would like to get my backbox hinges plated brass to match and maybe the rest of the hardware on the playfield such as wireforms, sword in shooter lane and skill shot ramp. For now I might just use some Gold Chrome Krylon spray paint to do the shooter rod plate and decide if I want to keep Brock's Genie shooter rod or else I have my old spare TOM brass ball shooter rod.

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    Enjoy!
    -Mike
     
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  2. Chris Bardon

    Chris Bardon Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for sharing-I had no idea how those were held on. The rails on my TZ are a little beat up, so I might replace them at some point, but it's hardly a high priority.

    Of course, now TOTAN looks much shinier than the TOM next to it-different finish, or just newer brass plating?
     
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  3. mwong168

    mwong168 Administrator
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    The previous owner of my TOM much have been some sort of machinist because he made flipper bats, buttons, side rails and lockbar from scratch using real brass.

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    It looks nice but the buttons felt weird and flipper bats were so heavy it made the game not enjoyable when you can't make your shots consistently so I replaced them with stock flipper bats and buttons. They were pretty heavy with the lockbar weighing in at 4lbs and flipper bats + buttons at 1lb :eek:

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    The other problem with brass is that it tarnishes or oxidizes over time so it can look dull as seen in the pictures above. So once in a while I have to use a product called Brasso to make it look like a mirror shine again.
     
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  4. spiroagnew

    spiroagnew Well-Known Member
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    Another great tutorial...thanks for taking the time to document it in pictures. Game looks beautiful with the new additions. It takes a certain game to look good with the brass on it...TOTAN and IJ are two of the few.
     
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  5. Menace

    Menace Well-Known Member
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    Game looks great Mike!

    D
     
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  6. Luckydogg420

    Luckydogg420 Member

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    Thanks for the info. Any chance you have some pointers for older nailed on side rails, and where to get those 1/2 inch nails?
     
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  7. PhilGreg

    PhilGreg Member

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    PBR has them, but you can probably find an equivalent at a regular hardware store...
     
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  8. mwong168

    mwong168 Administrator
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    This was my first time removing and installing side rails on any game. I assume it is no different then just removing more of the same nail under the head of my side rails. Here is a video of someone removing a side rail on an older Bally Supersonic side rail.

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=9D_thnivZz8[/youtube]
     
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  9. DRANO

    DRANO Well-Known Member

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    Damn Mike... how much added value have I helped you add to this game now?
    I'd better get dibs on this sucker after all the playfield work and pro tips :D

    She turned out great. I'm only sad that I will have to wait quite a while before I can restore mine and do the same. I just keep staring at my Mike Chestnut gold plated apron regularly :?
    Not to mention all the other bazillion brass plated parts that are going into TOTAN, SHADOW, IJ etc.... my kingdom for a 1 month paid vacation to work on all these projects! :FP:


    Okay, another pro-tip for ya'll.
    If you're looking to remove older rails, like the ones found on EMs, they are often the threaded nails; so they twist as you pound them in. Pulling them can work if they are loose and you can get a pair of pliers on the head, but you may also put a lot of force on the rails if you have to pry them and it will stress the wood... splintering the cab a bit as it comes out. If you are throwing away the old rails, maybe not a big deal... and any damage to the wood will be behind the rails anyway. But, if you plan to keep and polish the original rails and just work on the cabinet, there is another way that requires less brute force.
    Take a dremmel with a cutting wheel and make a little slice in the head of the nail so that it looks like a flathead screw. Now, just unscrew it! Simple :idea:

    Of course, the nails are trash after this... but you're going to replace them with nice new shiny ones anyway, right?
     
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  10. PhilGreg

    PhilGreg Member

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    GREAT idea!!
     
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  11. mwong168

    mwong168 Administrator
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    You know you are #2 right after Bish who I promised buy back after he sold me the game. I'm sure WARLOCK will follow behind you at #3 should you pass because your TOTAN will be restored by then so everything stays within the "family" no matter what :cool:

    In regards to this nail it is hidden under the backbox hinge anyways and I cheated a bit when I was removing the second side rail. After I broke through all the adhesive tape I used the side rail and pulled it to the side a bit to help create a big enough gap for me to use this tool to pull it out. It didn't bend or do any damage to the side rail as I was very gentle.

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  12. mwong168

    mwong168 Administrator
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    Decided to do a quick and cheap mod to my TOTAN shooter plate since it looks out of place with all the brass trim. To remove the plate you have to first remove the shooter rod and the plate is held with these 3 screws and plate inside the cabinet.

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    I had some Krylon Gold Chrome lying around so I put on my jacket and put a quick coat on outside in the rain.

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    Still got mixed feelings about Brock's shooter rod and need to find where I stored my old TOM brass ball shooter rod. Anyways, decided to play a quick game and I got to wizard mode and GC'd my game. I just updated the ROM so nothing impressive but it was a pretty intense game for me.

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    I'm sure once I get Adam over I will never be able to post my initials ever again :FP:
     
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  13. Rhino

    Rhino New Member

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    Thanks Mike - this is going to be really useful for me when I get around to replacing the rails.
     
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  14. Aerostarz

    Aerostarz Member

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    Very good article! I have a set of new rails that i purchased a year ago but yet to install them. This will help .
    Thanks for posting it Mike.
     
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